A well fitting bra will have the following
The chest band should be horizontal around the body and should not ride up at the back. This should mean it is firm but comfortable and ideally you should be able to fit two fingers under the band at any point.
The wires at the front of the bra should lie flat against your rib cage (sternum) and should not dig-in, rub or poke your boobs.
The cup of the bra should fully enclose each boob without causing any wrinkling of the fabric. At the top of the bra, the fabric should meet your boobs with a smooth line without a gap or ridge. Even when you raise your arms up, the boobs should remain enclosed in the cup of the bra.
Your Boobs should not bulge over the top or sides of the cups and should not create a ridge.
With the straps correctly fitted, they should not dig into your shoulders or cause the back of the bra to ride up. At the other extreme, the straps should not fall off your shoulders.
If all the above features are correct, your boobs should be primarily supported by the band and not just the shoulder straps. The bra should therefore be comfortable to wear enabling you to move and breath easily.
You should use the above criteria as your primary method for finding you bra size. It will involve trying on lots of different sized bras!
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